Gardening Questions and Answers
Answers provided by our Staff Horticulturalist

Q: Dan from Beaumont, CA - What is the difference between CACTUS Soil mix and BONSAI Soil mix? For evergreen or deciduous trees can I use the Cactus Mix for my Bonsai's? If not what would be a good home-made-mixture for (outdoor) Bonsai trees?

A: I can't speak for other brands but my E.B. Stone or Greenall Cactus mix can be used for Bonsai. Bonsai require good drainage and most cactus mix do just that. A good friend who is bonsai master told me a few years ago that cactus mix was what he used.

Q: Hi Trey!...thanks for getting back to me about the Bonsai Mix. I know that Cacti need a good 'draining' type of mixture but since most of them are kind of s-l-o-w growing I was unsure if the same mix had the needed nutrients for sustaining Bonsai's. I guess it probably also depends on the kind of a Bonsai someone is using the soil mix for, of course, since so many different trees/plants/etc can be planted into Bonsai-style trays nowadays....but, if your Bonsai-Master friend thinks its fine to use the cactus mix thats good enough for me! thanks again and hope you had a great Christmas and will have a great New Years

Q: Lillian from Castaic, CA -How far from the driveway and the house should I plant my CA pepper tree? How far can the roots extend? How close to the surface do the roots stay?

A: I would think that the roots would grow as far as the crown of the tree, given
conditions are right. Most likely within 10 feet of the trunk one could expect
roots that might one day lift concrete, such as in a driveway. It will be hard to
grow much directly under the canopy of the tree as the surface roots will be
competition.

That being said a pepper tree is a great addition to the garden in the right spot.

Q: I had planted several different kinds of azaleas over the  past 15 years and seldom  had a chance to fertilize them. My question is, when should I begin to apply some Azalea fertilizer ?  I am in Zone 7 and  lowest temp in winter is usually no lower than 25o and soil is acid.. we live in the forest............if that makes any
difference. Thanks so much for any advice you can share with me.

A: You could feed a low nitrogen fertilizer now. Something along the line of
0-10-10. This would help with the formation of flowers next year. In the spring, just as the flowers are starting to fall off it would be time to feed with what is known as an acid food. We use Azalea, Camellia, and Gardenia food. I would apply it twice, one and a half months after the first application when the flowers are falling off. This is generally all azaleas need in the way of food.


Q: Carrie from Bakersfield - I have a double weeping cherry tree (Prunus subhirtella) that has recently been used as the neighborhood cat's scratching post. The tree is in full sun and its trunk is about 1.5" at its lowest (and widest) point. Is there anything I can do to fix the damage?

Also, is it a good idea to put chicken wire up  around the tree, maybe about 1' away from it to deter the cats from coming back? I just wrapped the bottom 4' loosely with aluminum foil, with some pure serrano chili pepper paste to keep them away for now. I appreciate your help!

A: Yes, placing the chicken wire is o.k. as long as it doesn't cut into the trunk.

Be aware that weeping cherry trunks are very susceptible to sunburn. If the tree is in full sun you may also want to paint the tree with interior latex paint from the ground level up to the first set of branches. This is like what you see in the fruit orchards. If the trunk gets sunburn or wounded it may attract borers, which are a bad insect that burrows into the wood killing the tree. After a few years the growth of the branches will cover the trunk and the paint will not be necessary.


Q: Debi from Evansville - Is it time to prune back my crape mrytles?  They are about 4 feet high, and how much do I prune? How do I get them winter ready?

A: Yes, winter is the time to prune crepe myrtles. You only need to prune crepe myrtles if they are getting too big or branches are getting in the way. If that’s the case simply cut them back to control the size. They bloom on new wood so pruned crepe myrtles often have a spectacular bloom the next year.

I assume your area has crepe myrtles growing so you shouldn’t have to do anything to get them ready for winter. They will be dormant until the weather warms in the spring. In spring an application of all-purpose fertilizer will supply the nutrients that were depleted during the winter.


Q: Judith from Citrus Heights - I recently purchased my first home.  It has a liquid amber tree that is over 50 years old.  It has gotten so tall and spindly at the top it is no longer safe.  It leans towards my neighbors house.  We are worried about it falling on their house, especially with those winds on Jan 4 2007.  We want to make it be safer.  We were thinking maybe we would have to top it but are not sure what is the best thing to do.  Pls. let me know.

A: Unfortunately Liquidambar do not "top" well. The have what's called a "central leader" which is a dominate branch that grows first and tallest, basically "leading" the tree. When we cut this out it causes the tree to send up multiple leaders, which generally ruin the shape of the tree.

Without seeing the tree I can't say for sure, but it sounds like you will have to remove the tree if it is dangerous. You may want a certified arborist to check it out for you. They should be able to let you know the best course of action.

I hope this helps. Congratulations on the home ownership! 

Q: Joyce from Loomis - If I want to spray with lime-sulfur in one application and dormant oil in different one, which should be used first? Should there be a day or a week in-between these two sprayings?

A: Did you know you can mix them together? There are usually directions on the lime sulphur on how to mix the two.

If for some reason you want top spray separately which one comes first won't matter. I would wait about one week between sprayings if you don't mix them.

Remember it cannot rain within 48 hours of application of either spray.

Q: Dan from Beaumont, CA - What is the difference between CACTUS Soil mix and BONSAI Soil mix? For evergreen or deciduous trees can I use the Cactus Mix for my Bonsai's? If not what would be a good home-made-mixture for (outdoor) Bonsai trees???

A: I can't speak for other brands but my E.B. Stone or Greenall Cactus mix can be used for Bonsai. Bonsai require good drainage and most cactus mix do just that.  A good friend who is bonsai master told me a few years ago that cactus mix was what he used.

Q: Debi from Evansville - Is it time to prune back my crepe mrytles? They are about 4 feet high, and how much do I prune? How do I get them winter ready?

A: Yes, winter is the time to prune crepe myrtles. You only need to prune crepe myrtles if they are getting too big or branches are getting in the way. If that’s the case simply cut them back to control the size. They bloom on new wood so pruned crepe myrtles often have a spectacular bloom the next year.

I assume your area has crepe myrtles growing so you shouldn’t have to do anything to get them ready for winter. They will be dormant until the weather warms in the spring. In spring an application of all-purpose fertilizer will supply the nutrients that were depleted during the winter.

Q: I have a double weeping cherry tree (Prunus subhirtella) that has recently been used as the neighborhood cat's scratching post. The tree is in full sun and its trunk is about 1.5" at its lowest (and widest) point. Is there anything I can do to fix the damage?

Also, is it a good idea to put chicken wire up  around the tree, maybe about 1' away from it to deter the cats from coming back? I just wrapped the bottom 4' loosely with aluminum foil, with some pure serrano chili pepper paste to keep them away for now. I appreciate your help!

A: Yes, placing the chicken wire is o.k. as long as it doesn't cut into the trunk.

Be aware that weeping cherry trunks are very susceptible to sunburn. If the tree is in full sun you may also want to paint the tree with interior latex paint from the ground level up to the first set of branches. This is like what you see in the fruit orchards. If the trunk gets sunburn or wounded it may attract borers, which are a bad insect that burrows into the wood killing the tree. After a few years the growth of the branches will cover the trunk and the paint will not be necessary.

Q: Denise from Cool - What do we do about gophers? We've planted a small orchard, other trees & shrubs, flower beds, & raised bed vegetable garden & the gophers have managed to get into everything.  We've put wire down in the raised beds but they still got in.  They eat the roots, pull the whole plant down into the hole or just chop them off at the roots.  The final straw is they are messing with my Japanese Maple.  What can we do?

A: We do carry a product called Mole-Med which is made out of castor oil. Its safe to use and repels the gophers rather than killing them. Try spreading the Mol-med around the maple and see what happens. It’s a granule product.

Despite the name it does repel gophers, too.

Q: Jessica from Folsom - My grandma has a lemon tree in redwood city and it's planted in the ground. She just moved up to Placerville but it's too big to take with her! Is there a way that we can take a clipping and how if it's possible can I do this? I also have seeds from the tree but I know that will take a long time to grow..longer than she can wait???

A: The way to propagate the tree is by taking cuttings. If you try to grow it from seed you won't get the same type of tree. In other words a Meyer lemon trees seeds will not necessarily produce the same tree with the qualities that made the original tree desirable.

To take a clipping I have included at link for you.

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/citrus/msg0823344114140.html

Check out the third entry for the best info.

Q: Debi from Evansville - Is it time to prune back my crape mrytles? They are about 4 feet high, and how much do I prune? How do I get them winter ready?

A: Yes, winter is the time to prune crepe myrtles. You only need to prune crepe myrtles if they are getting too big or branches are getting in the way. If that’s the case simply cut them back to control the size. They bloom on new wood so pruned crepe myrtles often have a spectacular bloom the next year.

I assume your area has crepe myrtles growing so you shouldn’t have to do anything to get them ready for winter. They will be dormant until the weather warms in the spring. In spring an application of all-purpose fertilizer will supply the nutrients that were depleted during the winter.

Q: Karen from Albany, Ohio - we have a 4 yr old we call a wheeping cherry tree, they are the ones that bloom beautiful pink blooms in spring.anyway the tree limbs grow towards the ground infact they are on the ground should we trim them?

A: Yes, you may cut the branches where they are contacting the ground. While the health of the tree is not at stake the beauty will be enhanced by keeping the branches from touching the ground.

Q: Carrie from Bakersfield, CA - I have a double weeping cherry tree (Prunus subhirtella) that has recently been used as the neighborhood cat's scratching post. The tree is in full sun and its trunk is about 1.5" at its lowest (and widest) point. Is there anything I can do to fix the damage?

Also, is it a good idea to put chicken wire up  around the tree, maybe about 1' away from it to deter the cats from coming back? I just wrapped the bottom 4' loosely with aluminum foil, with some pure serrano chili pepper paste to keep them away for now. I appreciate your help!

A: Yes, placing the chicken wire is o.k. as long as it doesn't cut into the trunk.

Be aware that weeping cherry trunks are very susceptible to sunburn. If the tree is in full sun you may also want to paint the tree with interior latex paint from the ground level up to the first set of branches. This is like what you see in the fruit orchards. If the trunk gets sunburn or wounded it may attract borers, which are a bad insect that burrows into the wood killing the tree. After a few years the growth of the branches will cover the trunk and the paint will not be necessary.

Q: Barb from Lotus - Does anyone know about high levels of Boron in water killing plants? We drilled a new well about 3 years ago. It came in with naturally soft water. Sounded good to us although we worried about the alkalinity on the plants. We have since been blaming anything and everything for our lack of success in landscaping the yard. We had an arborist friend here and they suggested we test for Boron. Sure enough, way high levels! What now? We'd appreciate any suggestions.

A: How did you have your soil tested? High levels of boron are toxic to many species of plants. The problem is there is no economical way to reduce naturally high levels in the soil. Yet, here it appears to be the well water that is creating the condition. Needless to say if we stopped using the well water the levels may be reduced, but how are we going to water?

I don't have any other information than that. If you want you could contact the county farm advisor and see if they had any info. Here is the link. http://ceeldorado.ucdavis.edu/

Q: Mary Anne Gottfried from Cool - I've tested my garden soil and I have a pH of about 5. How much lime (dolomite) would I use to raise the pH of 100 sq feet of my clay-loam garden one point?  I'm getting numbers of 1 2/3 pounds to 15 pounds from various sources. Would the amount differ if I used calcium carbonate?  Which is better?  We plan to rototill this into the soil a couple of weeks before we plant vegetables.

A: I would apply about 50 lbs of lime per 500 sq. ft. this season. Then we will check the soil later and see how we have done. I would not put on more than the above rate. Generally this has improved the soil enough for the first season so as to provide good vegetables.

Q: Laura from Saratoga - I have a Liquidamber that used to have beautiful fall color.  For the past few years, at least half the leaves have been turning brown and falling in August.  The remaining leaves don't provide near the color they used to. Any thoughts?

A: Has the watering around the tree changed at all over the last few years? Is there a lawn under the tree? Any weed killers used nearby?

Q: The area around the tree is ivy and does not get watered, yet the thick ivy keeps the area moist.  Several years ago the ivy area did have a sprinkler that watered it once a week.  It is a very large, mature tree.  On occasion in the summer we have given it a deep water.  No weed killers used nearby.

A: Did the change in the tree occur about the time of the sprinklers were shut off. I am wondering if it had gotten use to the water it was receiving and since the water system was turned off it hadn't been getting the water it needed.

Q: To be honest, I can't remember which came first, but most likely the events were within a year of each other.  If there are no diseases that would cause leaves to die on the tree long before the fall turning time, then perhaps the water is the culprit.  We can start watering regularly and see.

Q: Lura from Sacramento - Do you know where we can order some organic soil? We need 4 yards - we have 2 raised beds to fill. Our garden is organic and we would like organice soil. The local topsoil companies I have called have sand & compost or topsoil & compost mixtures but can't say they don't have pesticides, etc.

A: Most places that sell by the bulk don't know the history of the product they are selling. I am afraid that I don't know who would. Generally the soil conditioners are ground forest products or mushroom compost, generally not treated with any pesticides. Top soil could be from anywhere so it would be hard to say what's in it.

Q: Bob from Washington, DC - My cercis canadensis was so coverered with seed pods that it was unsightly last year. There were leaves just at the end of most branches. Any ideas of what I could do to prvent this?

A: Unfortunately I don't have a solution for you. Depending on the size of the tree hand removing the pods would allow the tree to leaf out better. There is also a product on the market called Florel. It is by Monterey Brand Products. Here is a link. http://www.montereylawngarden.com/info/florel  It is for the prevention of fruit in olives, plums, etc. It may work for redbuds.

Q: Japanese  maples require sun or  shade?

A: They do best in light shade or filtered sun. They will do fine in shade. Full sun here where we have summers that are dry and hot is not the best for Japanese maples. They can burn.

Q: Sharon from Choctaw - I have two hydrangeas. One is in the front garden and it has shade most all day except for morning sun. The other is shaded all day except for late afternoon sun for a short while. Except for the past two years, they have had an abundance of blue flowerheads on them. The one in the front garden has no blooms this year and the other only has 5 blooms. They seem to be putting all their energy into growing huge and having healthy leaves but little if any flowers to speak of. It is too late for this year but what can I do about next year? We did start watering them with automatic sprinklers about 2 years ago. Could that be the difference as I know they like alot of water? Thank you very much. Sharon Hampton.

A: It may be the extra water they have received. It provides the extra moisture to grow, but with that extra growth sometimes flowers don't develop. Plants flower more when they are slightly stressed and that may be why the flowered well before.

If they are growing well I wouldn't change the watering. Don't feed them with Miracle-gro or other high nitrogen fertilizers. Use a granule azalea and camellia food.

They will start blooming as they mature and slow down growth.

Q: Bobby from Temecula, CA - I have a Flowering plum that I think is a victim of over watering, I have clay soil and the leaves are turning brown and falling off, what can I do  besides backing of the water intake which I have already done to save my tree?

A: Really the best thing to do is change your watering habits. The tree should respond by sending out new leaves as it recovers. Of course this is true if we are sure over watering is the case.

No special treatments other than what you are doing.

Q: Julie from Gilmer, TX - I have recently noticed large black ants on one of my redbud trees.  They appear to be living in the tree, as I see them going in and out of a hole in it.  Will they harm the tree, and if so, how do I get rid of them.  Thank you.

A: They may live in the tree while never doing any harm. They may be just using the tree as a home. If you wish to kill them, Sevin pesticide would do the trick.

Q: Debi from Evansville - I have two bloodworth japanese maples about 4- 4 1/2 ft tall. They are in full sun and they were buds appearing then we had a frost and they have really done nothing.

One has branched out at the base, do I cut it back from the top ? Do I cut both trees back, or wait patiently.

A: I believe we are talking about "Bloodgood" Japanese Maples. These trees are budded to a rootstock about 3 to 4 inches above the ground. It's a place where to different types of wood are joined. If the branches are coming from below the graft then the "Bloodgood" part is dead and the rootstock, which is usually a green Japanese maple is what is growing. If the growth is coming from above the graft then the "Bloofgood" portion is still alive and could be formed into a tree again.

It sound like the cold really zapped the tree and it's doubtful the branches will leaf back out. Scratch just under the bark of the branches and see if any green is there. That means life. If the branches are brittle it's not good.

Q: Julie from Paris, France - Just read your good bug, bad bug with interest...but didn't see the bad bug part...have an infestation of ear wigs, pincer bugs...they seem to love parsley and basil and have now gone to my daisy plants.  Don't have any lady bugs (or just a few) but will get some to help with the aphids...after a gorgeous sunny month we have had a week of rain.

A: Ladybugs will not eat earwigs so you will have to dispatch them using a different method. They hide where it's cool and dark so check under pots and rocks. They eat at night.  There are baits that attract the earwigs and kill them.  We are now in our dry season and most likely won't see rain until October!

Q: thank you so much for taking an interest...have actually caught the ear wigs in the act...the bait I found is toxic for dogs as well...so have purchased a "Bio" general insect spray.. meanwhile it is cloudy and damp,

Q: Red from Auburn, New York - I planted a japanese maple last july.  I think the late frost got to it but there are two leaves at the base of the tree.  Is the tree done or should I do something to it?

A: Do you know if the tree was grafted? Did it have a special name like "Bloodgood' or "Coral Bark"? If it was grafted the growth coming from the base, below the graft is the rootstock growing since the graft is dead. The rootstock is usually a Japanese maple seedling. You could let this grow, but it won't be the tree you bought.

If the tree was grown from seed then it will re-grow, but will take awhile.

Q: Barbara from Georgetown, CA - I live in Georgetown and have Daylilies in my garden that are not blooming.  I will admit that in the last two years I have focused on hardscaping and have not done much to these plants that were existing in my garden and tended to neglect them.  But his last fall, I divided many of them and transplanted to different areas of the yard.  They are in full sun and are now getting enough water.  What can I do to promote blossoms?  I see Daylilies blooming like crazy in Placerville.  Is it too early for Daylilies to bloom in Georgetown?

A: My daylilies here have not started blooming yet either. You can feed them now with any good flower food. Don't use Miracle-Gro has it promotes green instead of flowers. Try using E.B. Stone All purpose plant food. We have it.

Q: Sarah - I live in Placerville and love your nursery.  I have been looking for bee balm, and nobody around here seems to have it. I am wondering if you do up there? Thanks!

A:  We do carry Bee balm but I am out as of right now. I would think we should have some in a couple of weeks (Mid_May). Usually I have them in 4" size pots for $3.99.

Q: Andrea from Placerville - We are trying to establish native shrubs and trees that grow quickly.  We also have a very long hillside for groundcovers and need some sort of grass that will grow under a Ponderosa Pine.  Any suggestions?

A: What do you want the grass to do? Are we talking about ornamental grasses that grow 1' or taller or something you mow?  What are the light conditions like? How will you  water?

Q: We want something to cover a small area where we sit and walk around.  It is our back yard but small.  We have a mix of clover at one end and and regular grass that looks kind of sad at the other.  We water with a sprinkler.  It is kind of dappled sunlight/ shade.

A: We could plant Acorus "Ogon" which does well in the conditions you stated. Here is a link.  You could also plant Liriope. Here is a link to that plant.

Q: Trish from Auburn - I have a dwarf Meyer lemon tree that is five years old. It grows in a large pot on our SW patio. The first four years the tree produced lemons—up to 36 lemons one season. The past two seasons the tree produced many flowers - but the flowers dropped off & therefore there was no fruit. The leaves are also curled and some of them yellow. I have given it citrus fertilizer and yet, this seems to make the situation worse. What do you advise?

A: Do you think it might need to be replanted? If it has been in that container for a while it may be root bound and in need of a larger pot and new soil.

It may also be deficient in iron. Are the leaves yellow with green veins? That is an iron deficiency and can be remedied with application of special iron food.

We also had a wet and miserable spring the last two years and that could have affected pollination and therefore fruit production. Bees don't fly in the rain.

Q- Ouida from Little Rock - Help!  Some young volunteers helping with lawn work in front of our ministry center "pruned" our beautiful 20-foot crepe myrtles down to about 4 feet each.  I am heartsick.  Rather than clipping off the tops, the young men sawed through boughs 4 to 5 inches thick, split some boughs and peeled the bark off many.  (Word to the wise:  NEVER assume someone knows what they are doing just because they say they have done it before.)

What can I do to help them live?  I know it will take years for them to get back to big and beautiful but first I need to help them survive the shock.

A: First some good news! Crape myrtles bloom on new wood so with the heavy pruning you should get quite a flower show. Your best bet is to let them leaf out and develop them back into the trees you had.  As far as "shock" there is really not much to do. They will leaf out on their own and its best to let them ease back into without doing anything. Once they have leafed out and all cold weather has passed we can feed them with a general purpose fertilizer.

Q: Thank you so much, Trey! I guess I was the one in shock (a B-12 shot and a Xanax helped a lot), but it's good to know it's so hard to kill crape myrtles.  God bless you and give you much success in your business!

Q: Can you tell me how to prune a lemon bush/tree?  I'm not sure what to cut off?

A: The best time to prune is after the last frost of the year, usually about May 15. The only reason to prune is for shape. We don’t prune lemons like we do other fruit trees. You simply shear the plant into a desirable shape. I try to cut back only into new wood and not the old wood.

Q:  Bob from Washington, DC - My cercis canadensis was so coverered with seed pods that it was unsightly last year. There were leaves just at the end of most branches. Any ideas of what I could do to prevent this?

Q: I have a Liquidamber that used to have beautiful fall color.  For the past few years, at least half the leaves have been turning brown and falling in August.  The remaining leaves don't provide near the color they used to. Any thoughts?

A: Has the watering around the tree changed at all over the last few years?  Is there a lawn under the tree? Any weed killers used nearby?

Q: The area around the tree is ivy and does not get watered, yet the thick ivy keeps the area moist.  Several years ago the ivy area did have a sprinkler that watered it once a week.  It is a very large, mature tree.  On occasion in the summer we have given it a deep water.  No weed killers used nearby.

A: Did the change in the tree occur about the time of the sprinklers were shut off. I am wondering if it had gotten use to the water it was receiving and since the water system was turned off it hadn't been getting the water it needed.

Q: To be honest, I can't remember which came first, but most likely the events were within a year of each other.  If there are no diseases that would cause leaves to die on the tree long before the fall turning time, then perhaps the water is the culprit.  We can start watering regularly and see.

Q: Shirley from Sacramento - My California Pepper Tree is about 10 years old and at least 30 feet tall. The leaves are turning yellow to brown and dropping. It is almost bare.  Never has happened before, has always been beautiful and thick with foliage and berries.  Can You give me some idea what could cause.

A: I am wondering if this leaf drop is from the recent cold weather we had. Did this seem to start then?

Q: Thanks for answering.  It really looks bad now.  I thought about that. Is this happening to other CA Pepper trees in No. CA?  Also, last fall, we cut out some surface roots near the fence to keep them from encroaching on our neighbors, who have a swimming pool. What do you think?

A: I have not heard about what is happening with other pepper trees yet, although many plants have been damaged from the cold. Are there any peppers in the neighborhood that we could compare it with?

Depending on how much of the root system was removed we will have to wait and see this spring how the tree reacts. As the weather warms we should start to see new growth, which would be a good sign.

Q: Vera - I have a dwarf lime tree that is green all year long. should I prune it now? And should I spray it with that dormant spray?

A: You should prune it only after the last frost in spring. Do not prune it now! Prune for shape. Do not use the dormant spray on it! That is only for trees that lose their leaves in winter.

Q: Thanks, this does help. It does need some shaping. I live 8-10 miles from the beach in Huntington Beach, CA.  I don't expect it to frost anymore but I will wait a couple of weeks.

Q: Annesa from Las Vegas - What type of bark does Flying Geckos Stay on?

A: I am so sorry but I am unable to help you. I am a nursery that grows plants, not geckos. It's just our name. Wish I could have helped.

Q: Nancy from Irvine, Ca - What time of the year is best to trim and prune a Liquid Amber and Jacaranda tree?  Both are 30 years old.

A: The best time to prune these trees would be now. They are dormant but won't be for long. You want to prune when the sap is not flowing which is the dormant season. I would not prune much later than mid-February in your area.

Don’t prune the leader of the liquidambar if possible. It will ruin the shape of the tree. You can prune back side branches and some lower branches but not the leader.

Q: Chana from New York - Could you kindly refer me to a retailer who sends out satsuma mandarins? Recently I had my first taste of satsuma mandarins, what enjoyable winter fruits.

A: Thanks for writing. I am afraid I do not know of anyone shipping Satsuma Mandarins to New York. You might check with your local Farm Adviser or Agricultural Department. You might also check your local nursery. Thanks for your interest. P.S. Here is a link to the Mountain Mandarin site. Newcastle is about 25 minutes from here. Maybe they could help?

Q: Thank you for the resource url: mountainmandarins.com I had bought some at an eastside midtown japanese grocers about a week ago for about one dollar a piece. They were said to have been flown in from Japan. They were very good, so I decided to look to see if any were being home grown here. And there are many satsuma mandarin growers listed on the website you referred me to.

Q: Nancy in Irvine - What time of the year is best to trim and prune a Liquid Amber and Jacaranda tree? Both are 30 years old.

A: The best time to prune these trees would be now. They are dormant but won't be for long. You want to prune when the sap is not flowing which is the dormant season. I would not prune much later than mid-February in your area. Don’t prune the leader of the liquidambar if possible. It will ruin the shape of the tree. You can prune back side branches and some lower branches but not the leader.

Q: Janet from Mission Viejo - We have expansive clay soils in my area.  I have a liquid amber tree in the small front lawn.  It was planted 19 years ago.  There are some surface roots and have damaged the nearby concrete.  Some say that the tree MUST BE cut down and the to grind the stump.  I understand that the root will sprout upward and try to grow leaves but will the roots continue to grow in length, spreading outward?  Is there anyway to inject poison into the ground down stump that will move thru the roots and kill it completely?  Please help. 

A: Once you cut the tree down I doubt the roots will continue to expand. While the tree will attempt to send up new leaves, the fact you removed most of the tree means that while the roots might continue to grow they won't expand outward.

As the leaves attempt to reemerge next spring just spray them with Round-up whenever you see them pop up. Eventually the herbicide will kill the tree roots. It may take a season or two but it will die.

Q: Linda from Vacaville - The leaves on my 4 very large liquid amber trees do not turn the beautiful fall colors they are suppose to.  The leaves stay green and don't even all fall off the tree.  This has been happening for the last few years.  Prior to that they behaved as I expected with the beautiful fall colors.  The trees are in great health, get water when I water the front lawn in summer...water from the rain in late fall/winter...

A: Sometimes because of the lawn water and fertilizer trees grow and don't turn color. This has been a concern of Liquidamber owners for years. It takes a while for the Liquidamber to finally start to turn. I know it's not what you want to hear, but we would counsel patience.

One year it will turn color and should continue to turn color thereafter.

Q: i live in fresno ca.   the question is i have some japaness maple trees in pots, the concerns  i have  is in the winter the tempreture is below 30 deg at night, i need some help or sugestion.

A: Japanese maples can survive winter in Fresno without protecting them. We have them here in the mountains at 2000 ft elevation and they are just fine. So don't worry!

Q:  I have over three zillion mushrooms in my lawn.  I am not watering, and have not been for over a month.  How do I get rid of those little buggers?

A: Usually the mushrooms are growing on decomposing wood product in the lawn. Is this a new lawn that had compost or other wood by-products in it?

The mushrooms are unsightly but do not harm the lawn. Sometimes the application of lime to the soil will do the trick. It is a powder that raises the pH and makes it less favorable to the formation of mushrooms.

Q: my baby brother let my gecko out by mistake and was to afraid he'd be in trouble to tell me, he is lost somewheres in my room, my room is a basement, i was wondering where would the best place be to look i have looked everywhere and can't find him im really worried.

A: We sell plants, not geckos. I wish I could tell you where to look, but I don't know. Maybe the best thing is to go ahead and tell mom or dad. They may not be as angry as your brother thinks. Good Luck.

Q: Joyce from Vail - We live in the outskirts of Tucson.I am having my landscaping in the back yard of a tropical theme.Are our summers to hot to grow banana trees in the yard? There isn't any shade. Also I really don't care to harvest bananas (I just love the tropical look of the tree),do all banana trees have them? Can I keep them from growing?

A: Ornamental bananas are what you are looking for. Fruiting bananas are too tender for your area. They are the only ones that will take the winter cold. They go dormant in the winter and re-grow from the ground each year. Here is a link to some info.

Here is another link to a Phoenix site.  Even though they are in a different zone than you, most of the info is good.

Q: I am VERY interested in acquiring a Sequoia gigantea. My wife and I had a daughter named Sequoia who died when she was 2 months old (in 1996) and we wanted to have a living memorial to her. That said, we have waited until we have a home of our own and that may just be happening.

How much would acquiring one cost? Is it possible to purchase one 10 years old or are they too big to transport by that age?

Also, is it possible to raise one in North Carolina? I checked the zones and the weather looks right.

Lastly, how much land should I set aside when I plant it. I don't want to cause any neighbor disputes. When I visited the the Trail of 100 Giants, I saw some VERY impressive trees. That said, the root structure seems to extend so much that the root diameter seems to be about 3x the trunk diameter. Is that a fair estimate?

Your help is GREATLY appreciated.

A: The roots of a Sequoiadendron gigantean extend to past the dripline. This is not a tree that you would put to close to the house. I have one planted at a house in Placerville that has grown about three feet a year. I would keep it at least 20 feet or more from any property boundaries or structures.

I don’t know what prices are like there, but the biggest Sequoiadendron I would deal with is what’s called a 24” box size. The tree is growing in a 2’ square box for about $150 to $200. They are about 6 to 7’ tall. Fifteen gallon size is the most popular. This is the size just down from the 24” box. About $79 here.

Here is a link to more info on the tree.

P.S. Congrats on the new home!

Q: Sheryl from Crystal Springs - For the last several years my crepe myrtles look good until they start flowering.  As soon as they start to flower, the leaves begin dropping.  I have tried fertilizing around the perimeter of the trees and I don't believe it's lack of water.  I have noticed other crepe myrtles in my area don't have the same problem.  My son right across the street doesn't have this problem--same soil conditions, heat, light, etc.  I am to the point of removing the trees; I'm so tired of the mess.

A: Do the trees get a white powder on the leaves? Powdery mildew is a big problem. It's a fungus and causes the tree to drop leaves. It's especially a problem in trees grown in to much shade.

How does the tree look now?

Q: Thanks for your reply, Trey.  No powdery mildew or any other visible causes for the leaf drooping on the crepe myrtles .  I have thought about just replacing the trees, maybe with river birch.  I like the interesting bark and the multiple trunks.  We have mild winters, hot summers here in MS.What about invasive roots--will that be a problem near the patio or sewer lines?  I could use evergreens, but don't want to block my view of the back yard.

A: Birch need regular watering during the heat, if the rains are lacking.  They don’t have invasive roots, though I wouldn’t plant them right next to the septic tank. The birch will drop the leaves in the winter to allow light to enter. Usually we will plant three trees to create the multiple trunk look, rather than one tree with three trunks. That way you can space the grouping just right. Here is more info from Monrovia.   Click Here and Click Here

Q:  Linda from Anderson, SC - I have a redbud tree and noticed a branch with leaves missing. I looked up and found two very hairy looking slug-like creatures munching down on my tree. I have browsed the Bug guide on the Internet and can't find anything that looks at all like it. Can you help?

A: Are these the bugs?  This is a link to a Google page on White Marked Tussock Moth.

Caterpillars will eat sections of a tree while leaving most of the tree alone. They often build webbing around the branches to protect them selves from birds.  Control is hand-picking or an insecticide for caterpillars.

Q: Marilyn from Auburn - Is there some trick to growing pumpkins?  I have tried for two summers now.  They are planted from seed, get full sun, get plenty of water, and the flowers never grow into pumpkins.  I used to be able to grow them in the same raised beds but they just never go anywhere. My veg garden is organic. I see bees on the plants.  Seeds are planted in June.  What's the trick?  Thanks.

A: It could be that the excessive heat we have had during July caused all the flowers to be male, no female flowers are produced. So even though bees are pollinating they are only pollinating male flowers. Some people complained about their squash plants, which pumpkins are members of, did the same thing.

The last two summers we had heat spells right around the time of flowering. We most likely can write it off as weather oriented.

Q: from Garden Valley - My lavender is looking pretty bad between seed pods and woody stocks.  When is the best time to prune it back and how far down.  It's about 18" high.

A: I find the best time is in spring. If that is to long to wait you could do it now, but you may have to look at some cut back branches for awhile. Cut back into green wood, not the older brown wood. Feed right after pruning and you should get some new growth to cover the cuts before winter.
If it's about 18" high I would expect to cut it back to about 12 to 14" high.

Q: from Rancho Cordova - how do i tackle my ant problem?  i have a small backyard with dry, heavy soil and a raised bed surrounding the perimeter.  it seems like my backyard is on an anthill, because anytime i deep water, i get millions of ants coming up - with eggs.  help!:

A:  I have found the product Terro to be quite effective. Safe to use and the ants take it back to the nest to use. It's available at most hardware stores. I used it and found it quite effective. Here is a link. http://www.terro.com

Q:  I attended the water gardening class recently and bought one of the 1/2 wine barrels and some plants to embark on my new project. After about a week, the water in the barrel was starting to smell pretty bad. I added new water, even dumped the old water out and added new water. Yet, the smell never went away. It was really nasty. My plants started to look very black and sad and smelly. My question is, what did I do wrong? How could I have prevented the smell and not kill my plants. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

A: The wine barrels sometimes have quite a bit of residue of the wine in them. This comes off and starts to re-ferment which is the bad smell. Scrubbing the wine barrel with a brush, and rinsing it out a couple of times usually does the trick.

We also add Mircrobe-lift, which is a beneficial bacterium that helps to keep the water clean. We put it in about once a month. The addition of water hyacinths which are floating water plants will help to absorb the material in the pond that has the smell. We have both items here.

Q: Elizabeth from Cool- Is there a weed and feed that I can use on my lawn that will really kill off the clover and miscellaneous weeds and maintain a healthy green lawn?  And, what about the time of day / temperature to use same?

A: There are weed and feeds that really work. I carry Green All Weed and feed. I can tell you how to use it so it woks best.

That being said I have started using an organic fertilizer called "Natures Green". I feel it makes for a healthier lawn, by not using the synthetic fertilizers in the 'weed and feed'. We still have to address the weeds; which can be controlled, using different methods, at particular times of the year.

Q: Laura from Racine - I have 2 stargazer lillies that were planted in June, and have bloomed.  Do I cut them back?  Now or in Fall?  If so where do I cut?  Will they only bloom once a year? 

A: Cut them back after the leaves have died down, in the fall. You will cut the plants down to the ground. They generally only bloom once a year over, over a couple of month period. If your plants are young they will bloom less. As they get older the season of bloom will stretch out. When cutting try to cut above a set of leaves. Happy Gazing!

Q: Can you give me some some information on your multigraft fruit trees?

A: I am not caring any multi-graft trees, as I have changed my thinking on high density planting. Rather than multi-graft, I now plant three or four trees in one hole. This has the advantage of choosing just the varieties I want. I am going to include a link to Dave Wilson Nursery, who is my supplier, which explains this way of thinking, which they call “Backyard Orchard Culture”. I have also found that doing it this way has led to fewer losses than with the multi-grafts, which often looses one of the grafts.

I am also including a list of all the trees that I can get, if you order before Sept. 30th, for Mid-January Delivery.
http://davewilson.com/homegrown/BOC_what-is.html

http://davewilson.com/homegrown/SOFTorder_2007.pdf

Q: Auburn -  Will granular mycorrhizai inoculant lose its ability to live and work?  The container which I purchased in June 2004 says "Expiration Date_______."  This makes me suspicious that it may no longer be effective -- especially since it has been in my hundred degree garage?

A: Yes, it has a shelf life. I would get some fresh stuff.

Q: Sacramento - We would like to plant 2 small trees in our small backyard. Our backyard gets a south/west late afternoon sun exposure. The only problem is we have telephone and power lines 18-35' across our backyard fence. I think sun tolerant japanese maples would work but what about a dogwood? Fall color, deciduous and or a flowering tree would be most desirable. Any suggestions for other trees would be appreciated.

A: I don't think the Japanese maple or dogwood would be good choices. It sounds like you have a lot of sun, and in Sacramento afternoon sun, anywhere from noon to 4:00pm is a bit much.

How about Crepe myrtles (Lagerstroemia)? They flower in summer, have fantastic fall color, and are heat and sun tolerant. They also stay below 20 feet, and can be kept pruned smaller, which actually improves the flowering.

Flowering plum (Prunus 'Krauter vesuvius') also don't grow very big. They get about 18' tall and wide, with burgundy leaves, pink spring flowers. No fall color, though.

Persimmon would be an interesting choice. It has ornamental, as well as edible fruit, fall color in the oranges, and small growth to about 15 feet tall and wide.

Last but not least are redbuds Cercis Canadensis. "Oklahoma" is a favorite. Growing to about 25 feet tall, wine red flowers, and attractive fall color. If that's too tall "Avondale" only grows to about 12' tall and wide.

Q: Is the Vitex Agnus Castus and tree or shrub with non-invasive roots? I would like to plant one in the front yard and I don’t want to have any problems with the plumbing pipes.

A: No, the Vitex has surface roots which are not invasive and should be no problem for plumbing pipes.

Q: Our lawn is not really beautiful but it's fine for us with all the different kinds of grasses. However, lately we have patches where the grass has turned an ugly dark brown. Any idea what is causing this?

A: First thing I always do is check to make sure that the lawn is being evenly watered, and the spots are not dry spots. If it is getting good water then we have to look at disease. It’s common to see disease during summer since it’s hot and we water so much. The moisture plus heat are the right conditions for dollar spot disease which is common. Watering in the morning as opposed to night helps let the grass blades dry out. Dollar spot fungi may be spread by mowers, traveling sprinklers and other maintenance equipment. Maintaining clean equipment may help prevent spreading.

Because this disease is serious during hot weather, many homeowners feel the resulting bleached grass is caused by a lack of water. They don't realize the problem is caused by fungi. Over watering in an attempt to correct the supposed drought may make the disease get much worse.

You can also try feeding the lawn as a lawn weak from lack of fertilizer can be more susceptible to disease. I use E.B. Stone Organic “Natures Green” Lawn Food.

Q:  We currently live in Sacramento and are in the process of relocating to Yorba Linda.  We are looking at a home, built in 1973, that has a Liquid Amber tree in the front yard.  This tree is large and is planted 7-9 feet away from the front of the home.  Its roots appear to be going under one of the front sidewalks, lifting up the concrete at its seam.

I've seen a show recently on problems with these trees and wanted to get some information on them. 

If we purchase this home, we would like to remove the tree.  How easy or difficult is this?  I know they can be aggressive-growing trees and the roots will continue to sprout even if the source is destroyed, correct?

A: Liquidambar trees are a problem when it comes to their roots. While removing it may require an arborist to do the work, the roots, while they may send up suckers, should be easy enough to control. I think once the tree is removed the lifting of the sidewalk should be reduced. You may have to have the stump ground out, which the arborist should be able to do.

The other issue with tree is the spiny seed pods that drop and can be a hazard on the sidewalk. They are sharp to bare feet, and a tripping hazard otherwise.

Liquidambars are great trees in the right spot.

Q:  Jacksonville, FL  What pests eat redbud tree leaves?  There many circular holes in each leaf.  Please describe how to treat.

 A: I have attached a photo of what some damage on a leaf. Is this the type of damage? If it is then you have "Leaf-cutter bees". Leafcutter bees cut the leaves of plants. The cut leaf fragments are used to form nest cells. Insecticides are ineffective for preventing leaf cutting. The only known control of leaf injuries is to cover susceptible plants with cheesecloth or other loose netting during periods when leafcutter bees are most active.

I get them all the time here at the nursery, especially on redbuds. I don't know why the favor that tree. I will tell you it makes it hard to sell a tree with holes in it, even when I tell folks it won't damage tree permanently.

Q:  My Meyer lemon has been containerized for 5 years and I now want to put it in the ground...........when is the time to transplant?

A: You can transplant now if you like. Just do it early in the morning or dusk. Don’t want to be working in the heat. Be sure to mulch the area under the tree with a two inch layer of shredded cedar bark to conserve moisture. We want the tree to get established before the cold weather.

Q: I have 2 very large hydrangea plants that need to be uprooted and replanted in another location. Would I damage these if I were to split the root of  each bush before replanting. Also how deep are the roots to this type of  plant and would it need fertilizer for the new location to survive?

A: Yes, you can divide hydrangeas. You should, however wait till winter if  possible, as the plants are dormant at that time. I don't think fertilizer  would make the difference in whether the plant lived or not, however I do  always use a pre-plant fertilizer when planting as this improves the over  -all health of the plant. The roots could go down a foot or so.  Does that help?

Q: Yes, but wouldnt this do more harm if these were to be dug up in the winter? or do you mean the fall?  I am trying to take all the plants which are overgrown in a very small sloped front yard , and put them in the back of the house where there is much more space to spread out on flat land. Where they are located now, looks terrible, even though the plants look really healthy. The front of my house is too small for all these large plants. These are  just too big for the location. The person who did this planting really didnt map out the design very well, and I am stuck with a rather large problem. I dont want to kill these beautiful plants, since I did bring them back to life two years ago. I have never transplanted such large plants before, I'm more custom to house plants. Do you think it would be a better idea to  just trim the plants to  a smaller size until the transplanting? I do understand that if doing so, the blooms may not come back next year in full capacity.  Also are the azaleas just as easy to take out? I do have  a few, but Im not sure if i will transplant these just yet.     please help!  Thanks!

A: No, these plants are in a dormant state in the winter. They can be moved around a lot easier when dormant than when they are actively growing, like now. You don’t want to do it if the ground is frozen, but when you are able to dig in the ground, maybe even early spring. Azaleas would be the same, transplanting them in the winter or early spring. The hydrangeas are pretty tough and should be a snap for you to transplant.

Go ahead and prune them now, if it would make the yard look better. Yes, you might not have much of a flower show next year, but that could be the case just from the transplanting. Go ahead and prune them as far as you want. I have pruned these things to just above the ground before, and they have come back great!

When digging a hydrangea to transplant, dig up as much of the root ball as possible. It may be VERY heavy, so you might want to get some help with this.

After you transplant it, water it in well once. You may not need to water again until the warmer spring weather.

Q: We have a Blood Good (I think) Japanese Maple that is about 15 ft. tall. I know the recommended pruning time is after the leaves have dropped.  How much pruning can be done now without harming the tree? It is in full afternoon sun.

A: I would keep my pruning light during the heat. Japanese maples have a hard time when it gets really hot. They need all the leaf surface they can get to help in transpiration. You can do heavier pruning in spring when the heat hasn’t arrived. Try to just pinch back growth this time of year. Winter is the next opportunity for heavier pruning.

Q: I believe I have a type of redbud tree in my front yard. It has purpleish flowers in the spring, red scaly bark and heart shaped leaves in the summer. It was full of leaves until 2 days ago. Now there are just a few full size leaves; the rest are all dried up and falling. I found a bug on it I've never seen before. It has a rust colored head and a yellow and black back and flys. Is this bug the problem? Can the tree be saved?

A: I don't think the bug is responsible for the drying leaves. How old is this tree or is this a new yard for you? How often is it watered? Let me know.

Q: The tree is at least 15 years old. I don't water it alone, but my normal sprinkler broke and so I used the old type that oscillate left to right and would have hit the leaves for sure. If this is the cause will the tree be ok? Will the leaves come back this season?

A: I don’t think the leaves were damaged by the water. Since the leaves dropped off so quickly I wonder if the tree is getting enough water. This problem seems to have started when your normal sprinkler broke and you switched to a different type of sprinkler. Could be that the water pattern is different and the soil is drying out, causing the leaves to dry up and fall off.

Check the soil for moisture. You should be able to probe down a few inches and find somewhat damp soil. Not soggy, but damp. When you water make sure to water deeply, leaving the sprinkler on long enough to do the job.

Q: Hi:  Every year (and it is happening right now) a bunch of flying insects seem to come out of the ground.  They look like large black ants with wings.  Do you have any idea what they are?  Love your nursery.  All of the veggies I bought from you are doing great and the shrubs I bought last year all bloomed and are also doing great.  You have a wonderful place!!

A: Is it possible to drop a sample of the insects by the nursery sometime? If you can, put a couple in a plastic bag, and I'll take a look at them.

A: I finally got the bug's i.d. They are winged termites. They are a natural part of the forest ecosystem, so it does not mean they are looking to attack your home.

Q: I was hoping you might be able to suggest some trees that I could plant in my parents newly designed backyard?  We are hoping to plant trees that have semi/non-aggresive root systems.  We just removed 2,40 year old Fruitless Mullberries that had roots uplifting the patio.  I have read your summary about the Redbud and I have put this as an option.  I have also thought of Crape Myrtle 'Indian Tribe'type, Purple leaf plum, Evergreen Pear, and possibly the California Pepper (but I believe this tree has an aggressive root system?).  Do you have some opinions that might work?  I am looking for evergreen and/or deciduous, flowering, upright or rounded canopy, but really don't desire conifers.  I hope you can help.  Thank you!:)

A: Glad to help, but I need to know weather we talking about Santa Barbara or somewhere up here for planting?  Let me know.

Q: I am actually talking about Santa Barbara/Goleta.  Goleta is the little town where UCSB is located at. Your help is greatly appreciated.

A: You are right to avoid the Pepper Tree. The other trees would make fine replacements for the Mulberry. The Tribe series of Crape Myrtles is good as they are mildew resistant, which is important for coastal areas. Here is a tree that is evergreen and new to the trade. It’s called Japanese Blueberry Tree and is quite attractive. Here is a link to Monrovia where they have a description.

Ask your self weather you want to let light in during the winter, as in a deciduous tree, or is privacy important where an evergreen might be better?

Q: Even though fuchsias are in shade and watered, I don't know what else to do in very hot weather.  Would you recommend moving pots and baskets to basement when it goes over 100? I lost some last year and want to protect our new ones.

A: Are these fuchsia you have now, or are thinking of buying? Our fuchsias will wilt in the really hot weather, too. Could you use a different shade loving plant? Trailing begonias, campanula, coral bells, moneywort or impatiens are some that hold up better in the heat. Were the fuchsias in hanging pots or planted in the ground?
Let me know.

Q: On your Fall Perennial page, there is a picture of a blue type of flower at the bottom of the page.  What is the name of that perennial?

A: The flower is a perennial called ‘Monks hood’ (Aconitum napellus). Here is a link to more info, http://davesgarden.com/pf/go/13/. 

Q: I planted 58 Italian Cypress 5 years ago in my yard.  Every spring some of them die. This spring I have lost 14 so far.  Any ideas what I am doing wrong?  Could it be the heavy clay soil in Lincoln?

A: Yes, the clay soil of Lincoln could be a factor, especially if the soil is wet or stays moist, causing the roots to die. How often do you water, and how? Do you use drip, sprinkler, etc?  Are the dead trees in one section or sprinkled throughout the planting?  Let me know.

Q: The trees started to die in mid May.  The soil had already dried out.  The 14 trees that I lost this season is scattered throughout the planting.  No more than three in any one group.  I have lost others in past years at about the same time.  But no more than two or  three a season.  They are all about the same height 10 to 12 feet tall.  I do have a drip system on them and run it about 20 minutes each time about once a week.  But have used a water hose on each tree in the first and second year of planting.  The soil is very dry and hard.  I planted them in August of 2001.  I had to use a two man augur to dig the holes.

A: Let’s look at the watering again. Do you suppose they could be drying out?  If we water with a drip system, and we have a one gallon per hour emitter per tree, then twenty minutes of watering gives us less than a half gallon of water per tree. With the soil dried out, and as hard as it can be in Lincoln, the water may never penetrate to the lower roots. You might try probing with a stick or screwdriver to see how far down the water is getting.
I would have suspected that you would need to water longer or more frequently than you are now.  I would give each tree about five gallons of water per watering period.

Q. Is it bad to plant in the summer?

A. While spring and fall are ideal seasons for planting, you can plant during summer. Professional landscapers plant all year long. Here are some summer planting tips.

Q. What kind of plants can I grow in a container?

A. The range of plant material is endless, indeed. Many plants seem to show up to much better advantage growing in containers than they do in the garden. Japanese maples, spiraled conifers, and weeping cherry trees make great focal plants. Many vegetable, herbs and annuals can be grown in containers.  Read our article on Container Gardening.

The Golden Gecko will help you choose just the right plants for your situation.

Question: My marigolds, zinnias, zucchini, tomatoes, and just about everything else is being shredded/chewed by an unseen creature. I have put snail bait out, but it doesn’t seem to be doing any good.

Answer: Take a flashlight, go out tonight, and look at the damaged plants. You may find earwigs feeding on the plants. Earwigs, or pincer bugs, are about of an inch long and have pointy pincers at the ends of their bodies. They feed at night preferring to hide under boards, rocks, and other dark, damp places in the garden. Here in The Foothills they seem to be a more destructive garden pest than snails or slugs. People who have just moved to the area from the coastal areas always assume snails or slugs are doing the damage, and apply snail bait. The damage continues. Snail and slug baits will only kill snails and slugs. You will need to use a product containing Sevin insecticide in it. ‘Master Nursery Slug, Snail, and Insect Meal’ is one such product. It has an attractant that will lure the insect to the bait. Non- chemical controls include leaving loosely rolled-up, damp newspapers on the ground near plants. The insects will crawl into the rolls, which you can discard in the morning. Try also filling a low-sided can, like a cat-food can, with inch of vegetable oil on the ground. They will crawl in and drown.

Question: There is something tunneling through my new garden, raising the soil as it goes along. Do I have gophers or moles?

Answer: If your plants roots are being eaten you have gophers. Moles are insect eaters and do damage by indirectly uprooting lawns, flowerbeds, and vegetables as they search for insects to eat. Moles enter and leave the ground through mounds that are conical, and plugged with dirt in the center. Gophers create fan-shaped mounds of fresh dirt, with the hole plugged by dirt off to one side. Moles, since they eat insects, are not attracted to the gopher baits, which use grains as an attractant. They are also almost impossible to trap. Forcing them out of the garden, by spraying the area with a readily available repellent containing castor oil, is effective. ‘Mole-otov Cocktail’ is one such product. Attached to the garden house, you spray an area up to 10,000 sq. ft. forcing the moles out of the area. Gophers and moles can also be kept out of the garden by using high-pitched electronic vibrations, created by a product called ‘Gopher-It’. This metal tube is inserted into the ground, and with the power supplied by batteries, emits a high-pitched vibration every thirty seconds or so. The moles and gophers, which are sensitive to sound, will soon move out of the area. You can also trap gophers. ‘The Macabee’ trap is the most effective. Two traps should be placed in the main runway, each facing the opposite way. Tie a wire to the traps, attached to a stake on the surface, to prevent the gopher from dragging it away. Cover your excavated hole with fresh grass or tender greens; the scent will attract the gopher. Place a board over this to block out all the light. Check the traps daily. Yes, if you trap the gopher, you kill it. You can protect young plants by lining the planting hole with special gopher wire. This wire has smaller openings than chicken wire, as gophers can squeeze through chicken wire. Raised beds, lined with gopher wire, will keep you vegetables safe from gophers.

Gardening should be fun, and it best to look upon the above challenges as learning experiences, and not become too distraught when these pests make an appearance in you garden.

Q. How do I select a landscape designer?

A. Like most professions, landscape designers are independent, individuals with their own ideas and styles. When interviewing designers, consider their experience, confidence, knowledge, personality and communication skills. Affiliation with established and reputable nurseries and contracting companies usually mean stability and reliability.